For Christmas, my parents generously gave me a Eurail pass and funds so that I could travel over winter break, and a little during this semester. As you all know, I used the pass to go to Paris, Barcelona, and Zaragoza, but as of last week I still had two more days of travel, and only a week or so of validity left on the pass. So, I decided to go as far south as I could get by train as possible, which is why I ended up in Málaga Tuesday night.
I went straight from school, so all I had was my backpack, but that backpack was stuffed full with my computer, books, and toiletries and makeup (yes, sometimes I am quite girly). I didn't think much of my heavy load until I checked in to my hotel around 9pm and realized that checkout was the next day at noon (I suppose this should have occurred to me before, but I just hadn't thought of it). I decided that I would rather have my valuables on my person than leave them behind the front desk the next day, and I knew I would need to be well rested in order to trek around Málaga with such a load on my back, so I planned to drop off my things in my room, wander around the city a little, then return to the hotel for a good night's rest.
Which was exactly what I did. I was staying in perhaps the best located hotel in all of Málaga, situated between the Cathedral, Picasso Museum, Roman Theatre, and the Alcazaba, and only about a 15 minute walk to the beach, so my walk that night was easy, but wonderful. As someone who grew up in a city on a harbor, I didn't realize how important being near the ocean was to me until getting to Madrid and becoming intensely aware of just how landlocked this capital city is. Being in Málaga, with its busy port, and gorgeous beaches, was such a wonderful feeling for me, and though it certainly isn't home, it was a nice break from landlocked Madrid. As I took the long way to the beach that night, walking past the port, I thought of my own home harbor, and how much I love seeing the tall ships and shiny harbor-front buildings (in one of which I have worked, and in another of which my father has worked for the past fifteen years--I think estimate is right...). Madrid may be my second favorite city on Earth, but I have realized that home for me will always be in a city near water.
I soon made it to the beach, and though it was chilly, rainy, and dark, nothing could beat the feeling of standing alone at the edge of the sea, with Málaga and its Alcazaba rising up behind me. After tracking down a kiosk to buy pilas for my camera, and taking some time to talk to the small group of elderly Spaniards gathered there, I took some pictures, then headed back to the hotel. Unfortunately, none of my pictures really do justice to this beautiful city due to the rather disappointing weather, but you can find them in my gallery nonetheless.
The next morning I awoke to shower, pack up, and check-out, and from the hotel I headed straight to the Picasso Museum. I'm sure it goes without saying that the museum, and the works housed inside, are spectacular, so I don't have much more to add. Except that, a group of high-school-aged students must have been having some sort of field trip around the city, because I ran into them at the museum, and again at the Catedral, and it made me laugh to myself to hear their teachers speaking to them in English. Here I am in Spain, trying so hard to learn Spanish, and there they were trying just as hard to learn my native language (granted, if they are like any of the other Europeans I've met since I got here, their English is much better than my Spanish).
Next I headed to the Alcazaba, and I am surprised to say that my time exploring this magnificent palace-fortress is certainly going to be one of the highlights of my year in Spain. Wandering (or rather, hiking, which was only made more difficult by my ridiculous backpack) through this structure was like playing on a grown-up-sized playground, with stairs to climb, hidden passages to discover, and, at every turn, a new choice to make about which way to go next. The views of the city are stunning, and the palace itself is beautiful. There were times I found myself, dripping in sweat and exhausted, beaming just to be where I was.
From the Alcazaba, I took in the ruins of a Roman theatre, then had a quick sandwich break to get off my feet, and get my backpack off my back. Looking at my clock, I saw it was about 3pm, so from there I leisurely visited the Cathedral (when you look at my pictures, you will see one of what looks like a bishop driving away sinners, but the statues actually made me laugh because to me they looked more like the heavy hand of the Church punishing non-believers), and figured I'd walk to the train station instead of catching a cab.
I made it there in under half an hour (the last ten minutes I was going at a good jog because I needed to get there as soon as possible to take off my darned backpack), and I went straight to the big sign to see how long I had before my train. It wasn't until this moment that I realized that I had misread my clock set to military time (actually, the first time that this has actually tripped me up my whole time in Spain), and I was three hours early for my train. It wasn't worth leaving and coming back, and I knew I couldn't explore the station because my back hurt so much, so I bought myself some ice-cream and sat down to sulk.
Thank goodness I only sulked for about 45 minutes however (I savored the hell out of that ice-cream so that I could save my seat), before I decided that it wouldn't hurt see if Renfe would let me on an earlier train. Turns out, they were happy to exchange my ticket for free, and I just barely made the 3pm train back to Madrid (had I waited any longer to be proactive, I would have had to wait anyway because the next train wasn't until my own at 5pm).
I am shocked that I was able to fit so much exploring into so little time. Part of the reason I must have misread my clock is because it seems almost impossible that I saw so much in just a handful of hours. My exhaustion finally caught up with me, however, on the train, and my long days coupled with the bad night's sleep I'd had in the hotel (those of you that know me well have heard my about my marvelous new bed, and now it seems I am too pampered to sleep well in a lowly hotel bed) helped me to sleep soundly the whole trip back home (so soundly, in fact, that I woke up sprawled across both of the seats in my row, with a little puddle of drool on my vest/makeshift pillow).
I am hoping to return to a Spanish beach city when it gets warmer, and right now it's a toss-up between Málaga and the incredible Valencia City. For this trip, I will break my habit of traveling alone, so that I can also get in some of the nightlife, so where I go may depend on where my friends want to go, but I can assure you that I will be pushing hard to go back to Málaga.
Un beso.
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Los baños
Yesterday my two roommates here in Granada and I visited one of the two Arab baths in the city. We weren't really sure what we were getting ourselves into, but we had heard rave reviews from friends who had visited them previously, so we thought we'd give it a try. I can now say, without a doubt, that they are a highlight of not only my time in Granada, but my whole year in Spain.
The baths that we visited consisted of six heated pools at different temperatures, one cold pool in the center, massage stations, and a tea room on the side. We were instructed to spend about 10 minutes in each pool, taking a dip in the cold pool between each warm one, and to visit the tea room as necessary. This was all the information we were given before heading to the changing rooms then back into the baths.
Entering the baths was like entering an entirely different world. The room was dark but for a few dimmed lights on the side, and the fully lit, elevated cold pool in the middle of the room. I later told a friend who had visited different baths that day that the whole experience was like being in a womb: warm, dark, wet, and safe.
I didn't realize it before, but I needed that time away from the outside world. I wouldn't trade this year for anything, nevertheless, it's hard to not feel like I am constantly being tested here. Tested to see if I can understand what people are saying, tested to see if I can fully explain myself, tested to see if I can keep up with this culture entirely different from my own in the US. There have been very few times that I have been able to completely relax and not worry about my ability to prove myself.
My situation may be unique, but I doubt I am alone in needing to escape every once in a while. We work hard (and at times, play hard), and sometimes we need a chance to go somewhere where the outside world cannot reach us. A chance to escape into a dark, safe place, where we can hide for some time. And, afterwards, we will be ready to be reborn back into the world, fresh like when we first entered it.
Un beso.
The baths that we visited consisted of six heated pools at different temperatures, one cold pool in the center, massage stations, and a tea room on the side. We were instructed to spend about 10 minutes in each pool, taking a dip in the cold pool between each warm one, and to visit the tea room as necessary. This was all the information we were given before heading to the changing rooms then back into the baths.
Entering the baths was like entering an entirely different world. The room was dark but for a few dimmed lights on the side, and the fully lit, elevated cold pool in the middle of the room. I later told a friend who had visited different baths that day that the whole experience was like being in a womb: warm, dark, wet, and safe.
I didn't realize it before, but I needed that time away from the outside world. I wouldn't trade this year for anything, nevertheless, it's hard to not feel like I am constantly being tested here. Tested to see if I can understand what people are saying, tested to see if I can fully explain myself, tested to see if I can keep up with this culture entirely different from my own in the US. There have been very few times that I have been able to completely relax and not worry about my ability to prove myself.
My situation may be unique, but I doubt I am alone in needing to escape every once in a while. We work hard (and at times, play hard), and sometimes we need a chance to go somewhere where the outside world cannot reach us. A chance to escape into a dark, safe place, where we can hide for some time. And, afterwards, we will be ready to be reborn back into the world, fresh like when we first entered it.
Un beso.
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Granada
I feel like I'm right back where I started when I began writing this blog, back during orientation in Santiago de Compostela. Today marks the beginning of second semester orientation, and this time we've headed down to Granada. I was excited to go some place slightly warmer than Madrid, but apparently the weather gods have thwarted us and, what was merely a chilly breeze in Madrid, is a calm, but steady, snow storm down in Granada. That being said, this is the first time I've seen snow stick since I got to Spain, so that's pretty!
It's kind of funny being the only student (until Abby gets here tomorrow) who was on the program last semester. I find myself answering questions that I so wanted answered when I was first on orientation, and doing my best to not scare the new kids with horror stories about exams or the time I slept outside of Moncloa because I couldn't figure out how to get home! (To think there was ever a time I didn't know how to get home from any part of the city at any time of day or night...) I actually really do like playing this part because it's making me really reflect on my first semester, and marvel at how far I've come and how much I've learned.
Even our new director pulled me aside and asked me what phone brand everyone should purchase tomorrow! Of course, I insisted on Yoigo.
Well, I don't have much to say so far. I've only been with these people a few hours, and I'm sure any comments or observations I would make at this point would seem silly after I really get to know everyone in the next few days.
I just wanted to drop a line and say hola from Granada!
Un beso.
It's kind of funny being the only student (until Abby gets here tomorrow) who was on the program last semester. I find myself answering questions that I so wanted answered when I was first on orientation, and doing my best to not scare the new kids with horror stories about exams or the time I slept outside of Moncloa because I couldn't figure out how to get home! (To think there was ever a time I didn't know how to get home from any part of the city at any time of day or night...) I actually really do like playing this part because it's making me really reflect on my first semester, and marvel at how far I've come and how much I've learned.
Even our new director pulled me aside and asked me what phone brand everyone should purchase tomorrow! Of course, I insisted on Yoigo.
Well, I don't have much to say so far. I've only been with these people a few hours, and I'm sure any comments or observations I would make at this point would seem silly after I really get to know everyone in the next few days.
I just wanted to drop a line and say hola from Granada!
Un beso.
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Viajes
Well, I have absolutely no idea where to begin.
This month is going to be, and already has been, one of the most spectacular months of my life. In fewer than 31 days, I will have visited Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, Zaragoza, Granada, and Málaga. What a life!
This crazy month began on the 19th, when I packed up all of my belongings and headed to Paris on an overnight train. I bought the cheapest seats available, which meant that I ended up in a reclining chair (and they use the word "reclining" loosely). This "Princess and the pea"-esque sleeper, however, was able to fall asleep unbelievably easily thanks to the steady rocking of the train, and the soothing sound of the clicking of the tracks. Also, as little as I have liked sharing rooms in the past, I am someone who feels safer sleeping in the same vicinity (but never the same bed!) as other people, so, as it turns out, my little chair ended up being my ideal sleeping environment!
I arrived at our hotel the morning of the 20th, but due to a #$%*ing blizzard, my family wasn't able to join me until the next day. So I set out to sightsee on my own, which, much to the frustration of my entire family, I actually prefer, though what I really prefer is being able to gather together afterwards and discuss all we've seen, but my family's delay made this impossible.
I am going to stop reflecting for a moment, and begin here to compile a list of all the places I visited the past couple of weeks. On some I will elaborate, but others I will leave for you to explore on your own.
Paris:
Centre Georges Pompidou
So nice, I visited it twice! And, thanks to the generosity of my parents, I received a book about women artists at the Pompidou for Christmas because I found their exhibits so fascinating.
I visited on my own my first full day in Paris, and had the immense pleasure of returning for Christmas Eve. Due to the cold rain outside, however, I ended up wimping out on our plans to attend the midnight mass, and chose instead to return to the hotel, change into pajamas, and settle down for a long winter's nap.
La Conciergerie
Église Saint-Séverin
Catacombes de Paris
Avenue des Champs-Élysées
Musée du Louvre
I could go on about the breathtaking European paintings, but I have to admit (blasphemy!) I got tired of them after only a couple of hours. So I ended up heading down, on a hunch, to the Arts of Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas, and I'm glad I did because this quickly became my favorite part of the museum. They have made this exhibit pretty difficult to get to, but that means that it was pretty empty, leaving me all the space I wanted to take in the incredible art.
Carnavalet Museum
L'Opéra de la Bastille
Nutcracker on Christmas Day
Les Invalides
Probably the most impressive site I visited...well, that's hard to say, but certainly one of the most impressive sites.
Musée de l'Armée
Musée d'Orsay
Tour Eiffel
Montmartre
Sacré-Cœur Basilica
Barcelona:
I had a great time the last time I headed to Barcelona, but I returned home convinced that Madrid is the far superior city. This time however, well I still wouldn't want to live anywhere but Madrid, but Barcelona impressed me even more. I decided to focus on the modernists this trip, and even stayed in a modernist hotel, which was conveniently halfway between the Passeig de Gràcia and the Sagrada Família. After a full day of visiting the various sights along the Passeig, and a little nap back in my hotel, I made my way to Verdi, a art cinema that shows foreign films in their original language. Missing my family, and wanting one last taste of home, I decided to see an American film, Woody Allen's Whatever Works, and I highly recommend it! Afterwards I took the metro back to Eixample, then strolled over to see how the Sagrada Família looks at night, which is, of course, stunning.
La Pedrera
Casa Batlló
Casa Amatller
Plaça de Tetuan
Cinema Verdi
Sagrada Família
Zaragoza:
My 24 hours in Zaragoza were wonderful as well. This city is much smaller than the other cities in which I spent my winter break, but it is no less lovely. My hotel was conveniently located no more than a five minute walk from the four sights I planned on seeing, so I was actually left with extra time at the end of my day. After resting back at the hotel, I wandered back out into the Zaragoza night, only to find that people really take to the streets at night! Alfonso I, the main street that leads straight up to the Basílica, was packed with people of all ages enjoying the surprisingly warm winter evening. I really liked Zaragoza, but by the time I woke up the next morning, I was ready to finally head back to my new home.
Museo del Teatro de Caesaraugusta
Museo del Foro de Caesaraugusta
Catedrál-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar
La Seo
Arriving back home in Madrid today (Dec. 30th) by no means has meant resting from my crazy vacation. I only stopped long enough at my old apartment to give my host mom a gift, gather my belongings, and hail a cab to move everything I own here down to my new apartment. I am successfully all moved in, and even stepped out long enough to go grocery shopping like a real adult, but I am sure I have hardly begun to really get to know my new apartment, my new roommate, and my new neighborhood. Rather than go on about all of the new parts of my life now, I will leave that for another day when I know everything a little bit better.
For now, I will wish you all a ¡feliz año nuevo!
Un beso.
This month is going to be, and already has been, one of the most spectacular months of my life. In fewer than 31 days, I will have visited Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, Zaragoza, Granada, and Málaga. What a life!
This crazy month began on the 19th, when I packed up all of my belongings and headed to Paris on an overnight train. I bought the cheapest seats available, which meant that I ended up in a reclining chair (and they use the word "reclining" loosely). This "Princess and the pea"-esque sleeper, however, was able to fall asleep unbelievably easily thanks to the steady rocking of the train, and the soothing sound of the clicking of the tracks. Also, as little as I have liked sharing rooms in the past, I am someone who feels safer sleeping in the same vicinity (but never the same bed!) as other people, so, as it turns out, my little chair ended up being my ideal sleeping environment!
I arrived at our hotel the morning of the 20th, but due to a #$%*ing blizzard, my family wasn't able to join me until the next day. So I set out to sightsee on my own, which, much to the frustration of my entire family, I actually prefer, though what I really prefer is being able to gather together afterwards and discuss all we've seen, but my family's delay made this impossible.
I am going to stop reflecting for a moment, and begin here to compile a list of all the places I visited the past couple of weeks. On some I will elaborate, but others I will leave for you to explore on your own.
Paris:
Centre Georges Pompidou
So nice, I visited it twice! And, thanks to the generosity of my parents, I received a book about women artists at the Pompidou for Christmas because I found their exhibits so fascinating.
My little sister admiring the art
Notre Dame de ParisI visited on my own my first full day in Paris, and had the immense pleasure of returning for Christmas Eve. Due to the cold rain outside, however, I ended up wimping out on our plans to attend the midnight mass, and chose instead to return to the hotel, change into pajamas, and settle down for a long winter's nap.
Église Saint-Séverin
Musée du Louvre
I could go on about the breathtaking European paintings, but I have to admit (blasphemy!) I got tired of them after only a couple of hours. So I ended up heading down, on a hunch, to the Arts of Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas, and I'm glad I did because this quickly became my favorite part of the museum. They have made this exhibit pretty difficult to get to, but that means that it was pretty empty, leaving me all the space I wanted to take in the incredible art.
L'Opéra de la Bastille
Nutcracker on Christmas Day
Les Invalides
Probably the most impressive site I visited...well, that's hard to say, but certainly one of the most impressive sites.
Musée d'Orsay
Sacré-Cœur Basilica
Barcelona:
I had a great time the last time I headed to Barcelona, but I returned home convinced that Madrid is the far superior city. This time however, well I still wouldn't want to live anywhere but Madrid, but Barcelona impressed me even more. I decided to focus on the modernists this trip, and even stayed in a modernist hotel, which was conveniently halfway between the Passeig de Gràcia and the Sagrada Família. After a full day of visiting the various sights along the Passeig, and a little nap back in my hotel, I made my way to Verdi, a art cinema that shows foreign films in their original language. Missing my family, and wanting one last taste of home, I decided to see an American film, Woody Allen's Whatever Works, and I highly recommend it! Afterwards I took the metro back to Eixample, then strolled over to see how the Sagrada Família looks at night, which is, of course, stunning.
La Pedrera
Sagrada Família
Zaragoza:
My 24 hours in Zaragoza were wonderful as well. This city is much smaller than the other cities in which I spent my winter break, but it is no less lovely. My hotel was conveniently located no more than a five minute walk from the four sights I planned on seeing, so I was actually left with extra time at the end of my day. After resting back at the hotel, I wandered back out into the Zaragoza night, only to find that people really take to the streets at night! Alfonso I, the main street that leads straight up to the Basílica, was packed with people of all ages enjoying the surprisingly warm winter evening. I really liked Zaragoza, but by the time I woke up the next morning, I was ready to finally head back to my new home.
Museo del Teatro de Caesaraugusta
Catedrál-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar
Arriving back home in Madrid today (Dec. 30th) by no means has meant resting from my crazy vacation. I only stopped long enough at my old apartment to give my host mom a gift, gather my belongings, and hail a cab to move everything I own here down to my new apartment. I am successfully all moved in, and even stepped out long enough to go grocery shopping like a real adult, but I am sure I have hardly begun to really get to know my new apartment, my new roommate, and my new neighborhood. Rather than go on about all of the new parts of my life now, I will leave that for another day when I know everything a little bit better.
For now, I will wish you all a ¡feliz año nuevo!
Un beso.
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